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Edited by: Declan Murphy
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"Evening began to fall. "The Gion music will soon begin," said the elder daughter. "I can't imagine living any place where I would be out of earshot of the Gion music in summer." That rules out the rest of the world, and even most of Kyoto, other than a few square blocks."
Alex Kerr, Lost Japan

Introduction

On both sides of the Kamogawa river, between the area contained by Sanjo-dori (3rd street) and Shijo-dori (4th street) is Kyoto's traditional pleasure quarter. Kabuki had its start here, and there have been ochaya (teahouses) and Geisha here since the late 1500's. The narrow laneways of Pontocho offer many bars and riverside dining in the summer, while further west - the area bounded by Karasuma-dori (west), Oike-dori (north), the river (east) and Shijo-dori (south) - is the shopper's paradise with department stores and specialty shops to keep any avid consumer busy. Yasaka Shrine, popularly known as Gion-san, is on the east side. It is here that the Gion festival begins each July, and it is also the center for New Year revelry each December 31st.

Yasaka (Gion) Shrine | Gion Festival | Maruyama park | Pleasure quarters | Pontocho | Teramachi | Shijo Street Shopping

Pontocho

The Pontocho area lies between Sanjo-dori and Shijo-dori and was once the undisputed red light district of Kyoto. It basically consists of two narrow streets, one so narrow that it is more or less a pedestrian lane or alley. This narrow alley known as Pontocho is the stone paved street closest and running parallel to the Kamogawa river. Built on a sandbar, it quickly became home to tea-houses, geisha entertainment, seedier establishments and to an illicit trade in prostitutes (male and female) that the Tokugawa shogunate disapproved of but was pragmatic enough to tolerate. Regular fires swept through the crowded tenements and floods would clear out the remainder on a regular basis. With floods less regular now, Pontocho contains many old buildings, and is home to expensive restaurants, bars and hostess clubs - the cheaper and modern alternative to geisha entertainment. As prostitution is now illegal and expensive dining is not, the former has moved to the slightly cheaper real estate bordering the Shijo-dori shopping district on the other side of the Takasegawa (Takase canal).

The buildings beside the river often provide outdoor dining - with wooden platforms called yuka extending out from the restaurants above the river during the summer so that you can enjoy the cool breezes coming off the water (the water is actually flowing beneath you as you eat). While you eat, the bright lights of Gion from the other side of the river reflect in the water, students aim fireworks at each other, lovers stroll etc etc. Not a bad way to spend an evening.

The second street of the district is wider and is bisected by the shallow but dark waters of the Takasegawa (Takase canal). This area has bright neon lights, and many bars, restaurants (from excellent to poor), cafes, pubs, love hotels and in the side streets on the western side, a wide range of "night entertainment". It is a busy area full of young people, buskers, spruikers, bouncers etc.

If it isn't night time or that isn't your scene, you may want to have a look at the Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater at the Sanjo-dori end of the street. As well as the chance to experience tea ceremony, this theater has been offering the Kamogawa Odori (Kamogawa river dancing) in the spring (April-May) and again in the autumn/fall (October-November) since 1872. Known as Kyo-mai (Kyoto or Capital dances), these are performed in the traditional geisha manner.

Yasaka (Gion) Shrine | Gion Festival | Maruyama park | Pleasure quarters | Pontocho | Teramachi | Shijo Street Shopping



How to get to Gion?

1: From Kyoto Station:

Take the XXXX subway line to XXXX Station or take the #206 or #207 bus to the Gion bus stop.

2: From Okazaki:

Take the Kaisoku (Express) from JR Okazaki Station to JR Mikawa Anjo (10 minutes) or JR Nagoya Station (28 minutes). Change to a west bound Kodama shinkansen. Then take the XXXX subway line to Shijo Station. As of writing, the tickets cost XXXX yen one way and the journey takes about XXXX minutes not including the train change.

Tours - The Japan Discovery Tours visits the Pontocho District
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

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Opening hours, prices, booking procedures, schedules etc are subject to changes beyond our control. This site is just a guide, and we advise that you always check and confirm in advance. Suggestions, additions and correction of errors are always welcome. Please contact us.

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