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Helicopter skiing.

On the first day I put the snowboard into the helicopter, I was supposed to be in the office working away on whatever was supposed to be defined as work. Purely in the name of social and cultural research, I instead found myself flying across spectacular terrain high in the backcountry of the Tsugaike highlands, and was instantly hooked. Other than Tsugaike, the only place I've found with better heliskiing in Japan is at Tomamu in Hokkaido.

One of Japan's better kept secrets (hopefully it will stay that way for a little longer) is the massive backcountry found on the Tsugaike Ridge in northern Nagano prefecture. This area has fantastic powder bowls, and on a clear mid-winter day it is possible to take in a vista including most of the Hakuba valley, the high peaks of the spectacular Tsugaike ridge, and a glimpse of the cold Japan sea.

Tsugaike Ridge

Although Tsugaike has long been known as a hiking paradise in the warmer months, in the winter this area is accessible only to those able to trek into the area on snowshoes or telemark skis. There are some dangers involved in heading into the backcountry, so an experienced guide is advised. In recent years an increasing number of enthusiasts have been heading off-piste to enjoy the powder, get away from the crowds and the music blaring from loudspeakers etc. Apart from excellent skiing, this is one of the best ways experience and enjoy Japanese winter landscapes and for the keen eyed and lucky, some wildlife. The snow cover is fantastic. Tsugaike receives heavier snowfalls than other parts of Hakuba and the ridge protects the valley from the Siberian winds.

To get into the back country you have two options basically. Either take a helicopter, or get snowshoes. You can walk into the backcountry from Tsuga #1 pair lift. Heading into the backcountry is fairly strenous and requires a good level of fitness. However for a fairly reasonable fee (9000 yen, more reasonable than at first assumed), in spring you can trade your snowshoes or telemarks for a Bell Helicopter, and for two hours traverse the backcountry by ski or snowboard as you descend from the ridge to Tsugaike Kohgen. Apart from the ease of ascent, using the helicopter also gives skiers the opportunity to use hardboots and powder or slalom skis instead of telemarks.

Enjoying backcountry views and scenery

Helicopter skiing in Japan is nothing like landing on a glacier in New Zealand or Alaska, or seeking out powder in the Himalayas, but there are several advantages too. It is closer, you can improve your Japanese, there are lovely onsens to soak in, and the Japanese you meet in the backcountry are laid back and friendly.

The crew at Tsugaike have their act together, making this one of the easiest and safest places to heliski, especially for beginners. Please note though that if you haven't been deep in backcountry before, it is useful to have enough fluency in Japanese to understand the ski patrols instructions, or at least have someone with you who can interpret. Once you leave the area where the chopper will drop you, there is plenty of opportunities to go further off piste than you already are, but some of the traverses are unstable in spring and you should at least know which ones, especially out of respect for those underneath.

After the quick safety briefing, the chopper takes you from the helipad near the gondola station to plateau just below the ridge. If you can ski, you can heli-ski, but ideally you should be a strong intermediate skier/boarder or better. It isn't unusual to see families with kids in the backcountry, but the kids I've seen up there are always good skiers. Heliboarding is increasingly popular as snowboards have a wider base providing good performance off piste and in deep powder snow. The new wide body powder skis are excellent also for a wide range of snow conditions. Boards and skis (and snowshoes) can be rented at Uchiyama Sports at the base.

Majestic views, pure mountain air, and an adrenaline rush. Never a bad start to a morning. Taking your time it would be about 2 hours to descend from the top. Closest beer on tap is the restaurant near the top gondola station. Enjoy!

Large powder bowls near the tree line

Disclaimer: Do not venture into the backcountry without an organized group (including guide), without proper equipment, and without completing the "touzan todoke". (If you don't know what this is, don't go). The powder bowls are exhilarating, and there are few better ways of experiencing the remoteness of this vast area, but safety should be paramount at all times. It is beautiful, but carelessness has seen the mountains claim a few lives, and regardless of what precautions are taken, there is always an element of risk. Go with a professional group or don't go at all.

Tours - Japan Discovery visits Tsugaike Kohgen.
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

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Apres!

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